Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Most variable weather

This morning about 5:00 am local, I was awoken by multiple claps of thunder followed by rain. By breakfast at 6:30 am, the rain had stopped but it was overcast. Midway through today's ride, it rained hard for 15 minutes then cleared. It did the same thing around 2:00 pm in Wuppertal. The forecasts are mostly useless because the weather is happening faster than anyone can keep up with. Apparently our California weather is much more predictable. Here, you just need to be prepared to wait it out. A mother (with son) on one of the ferry crossings said she'd waited one out in a beer garden that day. I shall, henceforth adopt this plan. John, can you endorse this course of action? I thought so.

I came to Wuppertal for the Schwebebahn. No really. It's a monorail constructed in the 1800s as mass transit. Being here I can see why it would have been a good idea. As Germany was becoming more industrialized it needed a way to get workers from outlying areas to work. Wuppertal sits by a river in a fairly deep, narrow valley. Companies located on the river. The Schwebebahn is over the river for almost all of it's length. It was a marvel of engineering then and is still in use today, albeit with updated cars. Apparently they drag out the historic cars from time to time, though not today. Beyer has a huge facility which occupies both banks of the river. Bridges with piping run from one side to the other over the river but under the monorail. The river itself is quite beautiful in it's own right with many trees, grassy areas and pedestrian and bike paths.

Some little old lady started talking to me after I boarded. I've been hit up for money so many times I just said no. She was persistent so I finally told her I didn't speak German to which she said 'ticket'. The light dawned and I presented my ticket. Thankfully the electronic ticket machines translate so I had the right fare. Could have been costly and embarrassing.

Dortmund is definitely on the gritty side. Industrial Germany is much less picturesque than the east. The beautiful farms and forrest's are a fond memory.

Today and tomorrow my milage is only about 30 to 35 per day, but Wuppertal was a must. I'd planned 2 days here so I'm still ahead of the game. As it happens, because I got here early, I was able to see everything I wanted to see. Tomorrow, the Rhine and down to Cologne (Koln.)

I've been staying at hostels. They ate wonderful and relatively inexpensive at somewhere between 45 and 65€ a night with breakfast. I've been warned that if I'd come at school break, I'd have been outa luck. As it happens they are in session. I've even been getting single rooms with shower and bath. How decadent is that?

The Rhine offers a new opportunity in that there are ferries which ply this water. I might just climb on one at some point. Only question is whether the purity of the ride is compromised. Purity schmurity, when I hit the Alps purity might go out the window anyway. The bike is heavy and pushing it up hill might just take more time and life than I have. I meet Linda on or about 12.9.2013!

I was very surprised, but not unpleasantly so to find soft porn on broadcast TV. What more can I say?

The overwhelming number of folks who've helped or served me here have been wonderful. But, when someone wants to be dismissive, man do they have this skill in spades. I asked the afternoon innkeeper here at the hostel to please make me a reservation for tomorrow night in Cologne. He did it because it's a completely reasonable request, but curt doesn't begin to describe the tone. We Americans tend to lubricate these interactions with pleasantries and a broad smile. That doesn't work here.

People on the street express interest in the fully loaded bike, but not in me. I nod, wave, or smile as I pass on the bike and more often than not there is no reaction. They see me but choose not to respond, very weird. I have better luck with a cheerful gud morgen (sic.) Generally that gets a response. Some understand exactly what I'm doing and look longingly; as though they can't wait for their next trip. Kids are much more likely to react.

Yesterday I passed a group of 8 elderly folks. Men and women who must have been in their late 60s or better. They waved and were having a blast. You folks who think you can't do this...you can. I will organize a 2 day ride if there is interest and you can see for yourself. You may not want to do 300 miles, but 25 to 30 is completely doable.

Each large town seems to have a mascot. Who knew? Berlin has the bear, Dortmund has a flying rhino, and Wuppertal, a penguin. Too cute, not my thing. No photos. Google if you must.

Maybe it's a flying pig. I lied. I took one shot this morning while passing the soccer stadium, hence the soccer ball.

There was also a neat little community of dachas behind the stadium, each with wonderful gardens in full bloom. You could barely see the little houses.

The dude is Bismarck.



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